The eastern state of Odisha is endowed with many silks and cotton weaves, but there is one weave that LOUDLY proclaims Odhisha - that is the ikat weave, more specifically from the Sambalpur region of Odhisha known as the Sambalpuri Saree. The other famous saree from Odhisha is the Bomkai.
The ikat is a tie and dye method just like the Bandhani of Gujarat, but there is a difference. In Bandhani, the yarn is woven first and then the resulting cloth is dyed whereas in the ikat, the yarn is dyed and then woven to create a beautiful piece of cloth.
But bandhani or ikat, the end product is unique and cannot be visualized until it has been created!
In the case of ikat, the master craftsman designs a pattern and the yarn is dyed for specific lengths so that when woven together it will create a pattern that was designed. Also, the dyeing pattern for the entire height of the saree has to be defined in full and the interval at which the motif is repeated is also decided. Then the dyeing has to be repeated.
For example, in the ikat shown below, 2 columns of checks for the entire height of the saree is a pattern and it keeps repeating. The close up also shows you how the imperfect dyeing can lead to jagged edges in the pattern.
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| Sambalpuri Ikat |
Also notice that when it is dyeing of the yarn, the front and back have the same pattern in same colors. If it was printing of the design, then the reverse will not be the same as the front.
A lot of the ikats' close cousin from Telengana - the Pochampally - are prints as against weaves.
The above is a very coarse and cheap cotton saree picked up from Boyanika, Bhubaneswar for the typical Odisha colors!
Here is an elegant beauty which always gets me compliments when I wear it, in a lovely olive green with a purple border and pallu. This was thrice as expensive as the white and red above due to the intricacy of the pattern and the precise dyeing of the yarn. As you can see there are far fewer imperfections in the pattern edges!
The geometric pattern in the body is like waves and look closely - the pallu has FISH!!! This saree was purchased at a winter exhibition in Bhubaneswar where I got to see first hand weaving of an Ikat and the shuttles which had the dyed yarn (too bad, I do not have a picture - didn't think I would be a future saree blogger!).
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| Sambalpuri Ikat |
Both sarees have the same wheel inspired border - orange color in the first and deep purple in the second - which is so telling of the other landmark of Odisha, the Konark sun temple chariot wheels!
