The Kalakshetra Saree

Created and popularized by Rukmini Devi Arundale, the saree gets its name from the ubiquitous institution founded by her. This is a Kancheepuram silk saree weaved at the craft center in the institution premises in Thiruvanmiyur. Today, the center also supports the dying craft of Kalamkari. 

Kalakshetra Saree

The uniqueness of the saree is it's simplicity. There is no jari work in the body, border or pallu of the saree, only thread work.

The Pallu

Though there are many variants available these days, the saree featured here is an original. It is my mother's and was purchased at the Khadi showroom in Neyveli 3 decades ago. It has the original design of butta (filled dots) in the body and the rudraksha (ருத்ராக்ஷ) in the border. The workmanship is amazing - the front and back of the designs are so beautifully interlocking.

Close up of the Rudraksha

 After many hand washes, it is so soft and cozy to wear!

Kanchi Cotton

Just as Kancheepuram is famous for its temples and silk, it is also famous for its cotton sarees which go by the name 'Kanchi Cotton'. Three shuttles are used in the weaving and the end product is a fine close weave with generally a contrast border. The cotton sarees are made on the same loom used to make silk sarees.

Kanchi Cotton

Mine is a gift from my mother-in-law and comes with a unique border pattern which is very indicative of Tamilnadu - the temple tower or 'gopuram' (கோபுரம்). So traditional yet versatile the Dravidian temple tower design is, that it has lasted for decades of craftsmanship and creativity.

Kanchi Cotton Temple Border

Trivia - The temple tower of the Srivilliputtur Andal temple is the insignia of the Government of Tamilnadu!

Vaira Oosi

What better than a Kancheepuram - the queen of silks - to start with?

I begin with a handwoven treasure! My mother's வைர ஊசி (literally meaning diamond needles) - every girl's pride - was gifted to her as a young bride. This is a wedding saree (the saree in which one gets married) in the Tamil Brahmin community. Well-off families buy it as a gift for the new daughter-in-law, it does cost quite some due to the amount of jari in it!

The name is given due to the shimmering effect the gold thread creates on the silk. Half a century later it is just as pretty as her with tender care and occasional use!!




This is a Kancheepuram silk, in a very traditional color (called arakku - அரக்கு - in Tamil). Arakku also stands for lacquer in Tamil and now you know why this color is given the name!!

Vaira Oosi Kancheepuram Silk

This is a 9-yard saree which is worn as a Madisar drape, which is different when compared to the regular saree (which is generally 6 yards in length) drape. Communities such as Gujarati's also wear 9-yard sarees other than the Tamil Brahmin community. But their drape is also different from that of the Madisar. Even within the Tamil Brahmin community, the Saivites and the Vaishnavites drape the Madisar differently. While the Iyengars' (Vaishnavites) drape comes over the left shoulder, the Iyers' (Saivites) drape comes over the right shoulder!

This wedding saree is worn on specific festive occasions every year like Pongal, Karadayan Nombu, and Karthigai. So, do you have any clothing so specific to your ethnicity? Would love to hear about it!!
 
 
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